Skip to main content

Beat the Heat: A Guide's Secrets to Climbing in the Wasatch at the Height of Summer

Beat the Heat

Where to climb this summer in order to stay cool 

by UMA guide Alex Lemieux

 

Rock climbing in the Wasatch on a hot summer day can be a treacherous endeavor if you don’t choose your venue wisely. Between rattlesnake encounters, greasing-off a polished handhold while sweat is running into your eyes or simply trying to stay hydrated, climbing in the heat is just no fun. When the temperatures rise, otherwise do-able routes can suddenly feel like an impossible task. Put the odds in your favor, and consider these tips in order to stay cool throughout the summer. While you may already be familiar with some of these suggested Wasatch summer climbing areas, hopefully this will help you expand your hot weather climbing “repertoire”…

Happy climbing!

Photo: Alex taking advantage of some cloudiness on S-Curve Overhang, 5.11c, Big Cottonwood Canyon. Credit Lane Peters

Stick to The Shade

I always try to consider the aspect of a wall depending on the season. When I have an entire day to climb I will search for a North facing wall. Typically, I can find shade on West facing crags in the morning and East facing for the afternoon. Starting early will give you almost 6 hours of good, cool climbing on a West facing wall, so that’s always a safe bet. East facing routes can be climbed the rest of the afternoon. Shorter routes that are shaded by trees can also be a wise choice. Finally, caves and steep overhanging walls tend to provide more shade and cooler temps. Here are some of my favorite summer shady spots for mostly single pitch climbing.
Alex’s suggested climbing areas for shade:
-       Big Cottonwood Canyon: Narcolepsy, Ambush Wall, Geezer Wall, Moss Ledges
-       Little Cottonwood Canyon: Tanners Gulch, Maybird Gulch, Coalpit and Pentapitch areas
-       American Fork: North Division and Upper Division Walls, Black Magic and Hell Caves
-       Maple Canyon: Pipedream Cave, Zen Garden and Box Canyon
-       Ferguson Canyon: The Cathedral, Goldenfingers Wall, The Watchtower, Tower of Babel
Photo: Finding cool temps above the water on a hot summer morning. Right Pile 5.11d,  BCC. Credit Lane Peters

Climb Near Water 

Climbing routes located near a stream, river or even a tiny creek can be a great advantage on a hot day. Nearby water can improve the climbing conditions and make it feel a lot cooler than what the meteorologist forecasted. If there’s a little bit of wind or even a gentle breeze, mother nature’s swamp-cooling effect might even help you out for the send! Some of my favorite summer crags are found along streams, and the meditating sound of trickling water always add a little “Je ne sais quoi ” to my day at the crag.
Alex’s suggested climbing areas near water:
-       Big Cottonwood Canyon: The Pile, Beach Ball Crag, Creekside
-       Little Cottonwood Canyon: Industrial Wall, Lisa Falls, Great White Icicle area
-       American Fork Canyon: Cannabis Wall, The Membrane, Upper Membrane
-       Stansbury Mountains: The Narrows
-       Blacksmith Fork Canyon: Blacksmith Wall, Hardware Wall

Photo: Guiding a client up the ultra-classic Vertical Overhang, 5.10a, Lone Peak Cirque. Credit Wesley Holmes

Head Up High

When the heat really turns on and there’s no end in sight, it’s time to load up the pack and head to the high elevation terrain. High altitude is your best bet. Temperatures can sometimes be 20 degrees cooler than what you’ll find at lower altitude. Luckily we are surrounded by high peaks and high elevation crags which make the Wasatch an ideal climbing destination.  There’s always somewhere to go climbing even when temperatures hit the triple digits in the Salt Lake Valley. Actually, some of these climbing routes only require a short drive, feature some of the best rock quality and are easily accessed for single or multi-day climbing adventures. 
Alex’s suggested high elevation climbing areas:
-       Big Cottonwood: Brighton’s Frighton Wall, Sundial Peak
-       Little Cottonwood Canyon: Maybird and Tanner’s Gulch, Hellgate, Albion Basin, Devil’s Castle, Hogum Fork
-       Wasatch Cirque areas: Big Willow and Lone Peak Cirque
-       Uinta Mountains: Hayden Peak, Moosehorn, Ruth Lake, Stone Garden, etc.

Comments

  1. Attn: Investors

    We are direct providers of Fresh Cut BG, SBLC and MTN which are specifically for lease, our bank instrument can be engage in PPP Trading, Discounting, signature project (s) such as Aviation, Agriculture, Petroleum, Telecommunication, construction of Dams, Bridges, Real Estate and all kind of projects. We do not have any broker chain in our offer or get involved in chauffer driven offers.

    We deliver with time and precision as sethforth in the agreement. Our terms and Conditions are reasonable, below is our instrument description.
    The procedure is very simple; the instrument will be reserved on euro clear or through a pre advice MT 799 to be verified by your bank, after verification an arrangement will be made for necessary bank documents and stock testing expenses, the cost of the Bank Guarantee will be paid after the delivery of the MT760

    DESCRIPTION OF INSTRUMENTS:
    1. Instrument: Bank Guarantee (BG/SBLC) (Appendix A)
    2. Total Face Value: Eur 5M MIN and Eur 10B MAX (Ten Billion USD).
    3. Issuing Bank: HSBC Bank London, Credit Suisse and Deutsche Bank Frankfurt.
    4. Age: One Year, One Month
    5. Leasing Price: 6% of Face Value plus 2% commission fees to brokers.
    6. Delivery: Bank to Bank swift.
    7. Payment: MT-103 or MT760
    8. Hard Copy: Bonded Courier within 7 banking days.

    We are ready to close leasing with any interested client in few banking days, if interested do not hesitate to contact me direct. thamboburak@gmail.com

    Regards,

    ReplyDelete
  2. We are direct providers of Fresh Cut BG, SBLC and MTN which are specifically for lease, our bank instrument can be engage in PPP Trading, Discounting, signature project (s) such as Aviation, Agriculture, Petroleum, Telecommunication, construction of Dams, Bridges, Real Estate and all kind of projects. We do not have any broker chain in our offer or get involved in chauffer driven offers.

    We deliver with time and precision as sethforth in the agreement. Our terms and Conditions are reasonable, below is our instrument description.

    The procedure is very simple; the instrument will be reserved on euro clear to be verified by your bank, after verification an arrangement will be made for necessary bank documents and stock testing expenses, the cost of the Bank Guarantee will be paid after the delivery of the MT760,

    DESCRIPTION OF INSTRUMENTS:

    1. Instrument: Bank Guarantee (BG/SBLC) (Appendix A)
    2. Total Face Value: Eur 5M MIN and Eur 10B MAX (Ten Billion USD).
    3. Issuing Bank: HSBC Bank London, Credit Suisse and Deutsche Bank Frankfurt.
    4. Age: One Year, One Month
    5. Leasing Price: 6% of Face Value plus 2% commission fees to brokers.
    6. Delivery: Bank to Bank swift.
    7. Payment: MT-103 or MT760
    8. Hard Copy: Bonded Courier within 7 banking days.

    We are ready to close leasing with any interested client in few banking days, if interested do not hesitate to contact me direct. wrightjames931@gmail.com

    Regards,
    Wright
    Skype;
    wrightjames931@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  3. EMMA LEASING COMPANY LIMITED provides a full financial planning service to both the commercial and domestic markets. At EMMA LEASING COMPANY LTD we believe that financial planning is about two things: creating wealth and protecting wealth. These two objectives are at the heart of everything we do. And, as a member of EMMA LEASING LTD, we give you a small-company service but with a large-company set up – the best of both worlds.
    You are at liberty to engage our leased facilities into trade programs as well as in signature project(s) such as Aviation, Agriculture, Petroleum, Telecommunication, construction of Dams, Bridges and any other turnkey project(s) etc.

    Our procedures are most reasonable and safest as dealings are done bank to bank immediately after DOA is countersigned keeping you our client guaranteed of safety 100%.

    Leasing Price : 4%+2%

    Buying Price: 32%+2%

    Contact us for more details on our terms and procedure of transaction.

    ANDREW ROBERT CARTER

    email: acarterrobertandrew9@gmail.com

    skype: acarterrobertandrew9@gmail.com

    Tel contact: +447031968934

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Pain and Suffering...Life at Europe's favorite American Crag

Fall in Utah is amazing (as are the other 3 seasons.) But autumn is especially stellar when the yellow leaves of Aspen and Cottonwoods are juxtaposed against a backdrop of red sandstone cliffs. This feast of color is easier to appreciate when you get your feet back on terra firma after jamming them sideways into 2" wide, 100' tall, vertical cracks. This is Indian Creek: a paradise on earth, assuming you like crack climbing; i.e. assuming you like to suffer. But that’s what climbing is when you push yourself out of the "comfort zone:" suffering. Your success is dependent on your ability to suffer. No one actually LIKES it, but some people suffer better than others. These are the climbers who succeed, and everyone gets stoked on that!

- Tyson Bradley



Veteran crack-climbers drop their knee away from the crack, insert their foot sideways, and rotate their knee back in-line with the splitter groove. This locks the foot securely in place, making it a solid hold. It also hu…

SKI TOURING IN WHITE PINE GULCH

White Pine Parking Lot, 7,700', one mile below Snowbird in Little Cottonwood Canyon, is THE trailhead for a mega-zone of backcountry ski terrain. White Pine itself is the eastern-most of the 5 skiable gulches that drain into LCC. The forested terrain down low is great for safe, peaceful, and scenic skinning.
Skins come off at the top for blissful wiggling through the fluffy meadows.
Mid-altitude evergreen glades offer wind-sheltered powder on the edges of the more open terrain.
Before venturing onto more committing lines, avalanche danger must be carefully assessed. The guide performs a Compression Test in a snowpit
and decides to open up this tasty poke underneath a rocky point called The Spire.
If the snow and weather are both stable, the bigger lines on Red Baldy (in background between skiers) and Lake Peak become great options.

Below, a skier reaps the reward of his labors with untracked powder on the broad Northwest Face of Red Baldy, 11,170'. Another set of tracks is just vi…

SOUTH RIDGE SUPERIOR

The South Ridge of Mt. Superior, 11,050', is a classic, mixed alpine route. It starts with a low-angle "apron" leading to a 45-degree Couloir. This connects to the knife-edged rock and snow "arete." After a spectacular summit the route descends the easier East Ridge.
Crunch, crunch, crunch...up the solid spring snow of Suicide Chute. Zigging back and forth with cross-over steps we move efficiently keeping the feet flat and crampon points in the snow. This "French Technique" propels us far up the Couloir in the early morning hours. Sherman keeps his Ice Axe pick facing forward as he belays himself for security on the firm, steep slope.
Ahhh...Sunrise...and we're nearing the col. The snow climbing is just about over.
Keeping the crampons on for the occasional snow step, we find the points work fine even on dry Quartzite. Using the rope for added security we employ "running and fixed belays" on the more difficult and exposed sections.
Althoug…